| Date: | Wed, 03 Apr 2002 14:27:38 -0800 |
 |
| From: | "Barbara Smith" <barbara_a_smith@usa.net> |
|
| To: | "Mara Riley" <corbiegirl@yahoo.com> |
|
| Subject: | Re: [Re: Stays book] |
|
M.,
My document isn't a website, it's sort of a "bible for newbies" text
file I'm
working on. I've got it on auto-send to new subscribers to FandIWomen
list
right now, and I've been privately sending it (along with my personal
monster
bookmarks file) when I see new members speak up on 18cWoman list. I'm
really
possessed with the idea of getting good info to new folks early on.
:-)))))
Mostly, it's a compendium of helpful websites I've found, and a
bibliography
of costuming books I've either read, or wish I could afford. :-))))
I'm attaching it here for your reference. This is what Sue editted
last night
and helped me refine. She had earlier taken a look at my "newbie"
bookmarks
file folder on the FandIWomen list and offered some advice, which was
helpful.
Cheers,
B.
Mara Riley <corbiegirl@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --- Barbara Smith <barbara_a_smith@usa.net> wrote:
> > M.,
> >
> > Just a thought... I know you didn't ask Sue Felshin to proof
this,
> > but I can
> > tell you she is a meticulous editor. She just editted two
documents
> > for me.
> > One unsolicited, the other solicited, after the great job she did
> > on the first
> > one. :-)))))
>
> Thanks! I've got a coworker (non-reenactor, but good editor)
reading
> it; will see if Kate thinks it's ok to have Sue look at it. Good
> suggestion.
>
> > Oh, and I know you didn't talk to Sue about it, because she
> > suggested I add a
> > link in my document to your stays page (in conjunction with the
> > link I put up
> > to Drea's page),
>
> Could you send me the URL to your stays page? I'd love to see it.
I
> sent Drea the a copy of the draft, since I had her permission to
use
> stuff from her site.
>
> > and I said I didn't want to do that since you were
> > going to
> > press and I wanted you to make some money on the venture. She was
> > delighted to
> > hear it and said as soon as I had a publication date and title, I
> > should put
> > up a link to Kate (or whomever the vendor will be) with the note
> > that the
> > anticipated publication date is such and such. Which I most
> > certainly plan to
> > do. :-))))))
> >
> > All for now,
> > B.
>
> Cool :)
> I'm not sure what the target date will be yet; we're working on
that
> other costume booklet, with a target date of early June, and the
> stays booklet will come after that, I think. Not soon enough, but
> Kate is a bit swamped, revising another book of hers right now.
>
> - M
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
"C'mere kid, the first TOME is free..." -- The Local Book Pusher
Bonjour! And welcome to the FandIWomen list!
This email is rather long. It contains some helpful links to other
websites which may interest you. Please don't let it intimidate you -
our intention in sending it to you is to hopefully provide you with
some useful information. You might want to just save this somewhere,
and refer back to it from time to time. :-)
Now that you're here, go take a gander at our files, photos and
bookmarks. In case you are new to Yahoo, these are all located on our
list's home website on Yahoo.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FandIWomen/
All the files, bookmarks, and photos can be found on the menu on the
left hand side of the front page. You must have a Yahoo ID and
password to access the website's features. If you are unsure about this,
please contact one of us and we'll help you walk through it. You can
reach the list owners at:
FandIWomen-owner@yahoogroups.com
If you are new to this time period, or reenacting in general, there
is a file folder in the Bookmarks area created especially for you.
Called "A-Instructions on Costuming" it is the first file folder in the
Bookmarks area. It contains links to several very helpful websites,
including some websites that will show you how to create several
garments, including petticoats, caps, aprons and neck kerchiefs. Do
please read them - they will answer many of your questions. :-)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FandIWomen/links/A___Instructions_on__001017687121/
This community encompasses all THREE sides of this time period, the
French, the British, and the Native Americans. However, the list
owners must confess to a slight bias in favor of the French side. :-)
THE FRENCH
There's lots to find about the French online. There are some really
interesting things that are saved on this site, and there is also:
l'Alliance de la Nouvelle France list:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AllNouvFrance/
And the French Living History list:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/frenchlivinghistory
Both of these lists (as well as our own) have bookmarks linking to
individual military units and reenactment groups, as well as historic
sites. Surfing these bookmarks is a great way to find out what’s out
there, as well as pick up lots of good information for reenacting.
Here is a GREAT site for getting the feel for French costuming. We
recommend reading the entire website, not just this article. :-)
"The Art of Dress in Nouvelle France" – by Suzanne and Andre Gousse
http://www3.sympatico.ca/gousse-matte/fdl/Clothing.html
THE BRITISH
Well, the best place to start any British (or American) research
would be with the Brigade of the American Revolution (The BAR). Yes
folks, I said American Revolution. These folks have been around for a long
time and their information is very good. The BAR and other sites will
lead you to more in depth information about the British earlier in
the 18th Century:
The Brigade of the American Revolution
http://www.brigade.org/
18cNewEnglandLife: Clothing & Accoutrements - This site is often
referred to short hand on this list and others as "The Battle Road Site."
It was designed for a specific event (The Battle Road), but is so
well done that it is heavily referenced by many people. We find this a
very useful site for ANY 18thC reenactor, not just those portraying
British or American impressions.
http://www.18cnewenglandlife.org/
To learn more about the event itself, see this site:
http://www.battleroad.org.
The 18cWoman list – while embracing all women throughout the century,
this list is heavily populated with British reenactors, many of whom
are just wonderful about sharing their knowledge and resources:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/18cWoman
THE NATIVE AMERICANS
Native List – Native reenactors, NOT necessarily people of Native
descent:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NativeList/
Woodland Women – aimed at female Woodland Indian reenactors
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WoodlandWomen
The Woodland Confederacy - Resources and Links
http://www.concentric.net/~rowenna/woodland/links.html
EVENTS AND ACTIVITIES TO KNOW ABOUT
FRENCH GARRISON AT OLD FORT NIAGARA - A TRAINING WEEKEND - APRIL
13-14, 2002
This Alliance de la Nouvelle-France event is co-hosted by Old Fort
Niagara and is open to all.
The learn-by-doing theme of the training weekend will be recreating a
French garrison at Fort Niagara. Participants will be expected to
participate in the everyday duties of a military garrison of the 1750s,
drill, guard posts, patrols, and fatigue duty. All participants will
provide and prepare their own meals. The
schedule will allow ample time for this activity.
The domestic programs for this year's event include,
Fibers and Dyes, By Micheline Beluse and Frances Heaps
French Sweets and Beverages, By Helene Gousse
Practical Tips on French Cooking, By Carolyn Smith-Kizer
Historical Patterns and Clothing, Basic dress making and tailoring,
By Suzanne Gousse
All participants in the domestic programs are encouraged to bring the
following: Sewing needles, pins, scissors, thimble, thread, a sewing
project about which they may have questions and plates, glass or cup
and utensils.
On Saturday evening a slide program, "The Differences and
Similarities in the Clothing of the French and the Canadians," will be presented
to the garrison by Suzanne Gousse.
The following programs are tentatively scheduled to be included in
the garrison's day,
Swords of the Period, By Mike Malecki
Woodland Fighting Tactics, By Waxy Gregoire
The Differences in Clothing of the Various Milice on Campaign, A
round-table discussion facilitated by Andy Gallup and Larry Gorecki
Eighteenth-Century Military Tactics, as applied to Reenactor
Tacticals, by Andy Gallup.
There will be additional information distributed in the future.
Registration for the event is by unit. Please forward the number (men,
women, children) attending to Andy (ajg153@aol.com). Individual sign
in/registration may be required when arriving at Old Fort Niagara.
Individuals not belonging to a unit are also invited to register and
attend. Please register as soon as possible and not later than March 25.
Old Fort Niagara website: http://www.oldfortniagara.org/
BELLEVILLE 2002
Belleville at Old Bedford Village, PA June 1-9, 2002
http://www.geocities.com/cskizer/index.html
A truly interesting event - brand new this year. From their website:
"The mission of this reenactment event will be to present the daily
life of North American villagers circa 1764 in a domestic setting with
domestic tasks and occupations on display; to do so in first-person
interpretation; and to sustain that presentation over a week's span to
more fully develop both character presentation and one's personal
feel for the time period. (The term "villager" should not be so narrowly
interpreted that it precludes Native Americans who would have been
living in or near a village setting.)"
THE GRAND ENCAMPMENT OF THE FRENCH & INDIAN WAR
This first-ever event is happening Summer 2002 in PA. The organizers
anticipate something like 1200 people to participate. There are
numerous Yahoo chat lists that have been started to keep participants
informed:
For the Woodland Indians: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Council_Fire/
For the French: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Armee_Belle_Riviere
And for the British:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BritishCamp_THEGrandEncampment/
GENERAL INFORMATION
The British have the BAR to turn to for advice - the French really
don't have a counterpart. ANF is an "umbrella" organization, similar
to BAR, but ANF has no desire to tell anyone they MUST do this or
that. They do have a mission to share knowledge and improve French
interpretation, but they are not the "authority."
The owners of this list tend to focus on issues surrounding clothing,
foodways, and domestic activities, and don't pay a lot of attention
to military issues. So, we can point you to books and resources
regarding our interests. We mean no disrespect to those interested in
military matters, and encourage you to share your knowledge with the list
through emails and through posting bookmarks, files, and photos.
If you look in our "Bookmarks" section, you will find a file folder
called "Costume Books." We've collected some of the titles that are
regularly touted on this and other lists and listed them there, with
short descriptions, and links to them on Amazon. We encourage ANYONE
out there to first try to purchase
these books from your favorite sutler (Support sutlers! Support
independent book sellers! If we
don't, they'll go out of business, and then we'll be sorry!), or
search www.abebooks.com or www.bookfinder.com or your favorite book
search engine to find it used or from an independent book seller. The link
to Amazon is not an endorsement - it's just that Amazon maintains
more info about the
books in a semi-permanent manner that you can link to. :-)))) The
same can be said for the file of "Cook Books." :-)
The number one book for French reenactors in America is Suzanne and
Andre Gousse's "Costume in New France from 1740 to 1760, a Visual
Dictionary." From their website:
"This book is a visual dictionary of the terms related to Canadian
costume. These terms found in inventories, travelers' clothing
descriptions and other documents from the archives were used in New
France at the end of the French Regime. Based on three years of
research, this book presents a new vision of the "Canadiens and
Canadiennes" of that important part of North America's history. Suzanne Gousse
worked as a consultant on historic costume and interpretation. She is
now working on her degree in history at university. Her brother André
is a former military and fur trade curator at Parks Canada and is
active in the reenactment movement of the Seven Years War. "
http://www3.sympatico.ca/gousse-matte/fdl/Books.html#costume
You can buy it directly from the FDL website, or many sutlers now
carry it, including Smoke & Fire, and Harper House. One thing we really
like about it - Suzanne is online here and is happy to share
knowledge and clarify points about the book.
Ditto for Sharon Ann Burnston, author of "Fitting & Proper," which we
HIGHLY recommend for ANY 18thC reenactor. Anytime you can get high
quality close up photos of original garments, acquire that text, we
say! :-))))) It's like having a museum in your house.
The owner of this list - Carolyn Smith-Kizer - is a PASSIONATE French
reenactor/interpreter/historian. I'd say she is one of my best
resources for info on "how to be French in America." She's a wonderful,
funny woman who also loves to share knowledge, hence her taking over
this list when it was in need of a new captain. :-)))
There are numerous websites out there for individual units,
historical sites, and information. Here are a couple of our favorites:
#1 - Linda Kerr's FABULOUS-O Fort Toulouse site - it just goes on and
on and on... Read the guidebooks for the Habitants that the Fort
volunteers and staff developed - they are really wonderful, and pertinent
to both Anglo and Franco impressions!!! Particularly if you are a
woman new to the hobby, there are pictures of appropriate clothing, with
pattern recommendations, including links to sutlers. If you have the
wherewithal to get to Wetumpka, AL, I can HIGHLY recommend this site
and their events. :-)))))
http://www.living-history.batcave.net/Fort/FORTTOULOUSE.HTM
Also check out her links page -
http://www.living-history.batcave.net/Fort/FTLINKS.HTM
18cNewEnglandLife: Clothing & Accoutrements - is full of information
that is good for both British and French interpretations, and much of
it is applicable to the earlier French and Indian (Seven Years) War
period.
http://www.18cnewenglandlife.org/
In particular, if you are new to the hobby, check out Barb Delorey’s
numerous pages under “On Dressing the Part.” She has free
instructions for making petticoats, aprons, kerchiefs, and pockets, as well as a
glossary of fabric and clothing terms which you will find invaluable.
Please read these pages! :-)
http://www.18cnewenglandlife.org/delory.htm
Sue Felshin, a member of this list, and a member of the 18cWoman
list, has put together a source list for books, paintings, and other
items mentioned frequentlyon the 18cWoman list. It is a fascinating
compendium. Bookmark this site! :-)
http://www.ai.mit.edu/people/sfelshin/source-list.html
The Fortress Louisbourg is kinda like "Mecca" for French reenactors.
:-)))) They have an extensive website with numerous pages on all
sorts of things. Spend a few days cruising this!! :-)))
http://fortress.uccb.ns.ca/
Compagnie Franche de la Marine de la RIVIÈRE au Boeuf - I like this
group because of all the photos, and numerous links to other
resources. I don't think I actually know any of their members.
http://www.geocities.com/pentagon/bunker/8866/
Le Detachment - a French militia group. Very cool, fun group! And
lots of neat stuff on their website, including authentic 18thC French
recipes:
http://members.aol.com/Dyg46/index.html
The F&I War online magazine is moribund, but some of the links still
work, and there are numerous good photos on the site.
http://members.aol.com/fiwar/index.html
Milice de Sainte Famille - Holy Family Militia - Again, I don't know
any of these folks (at least I don't think I do...) but I like their
website. :-))))
http://www.milice.org/
SUTLERS
This is a short list of some period-specific sutlers that you will
hear mentioned time and again.
BURNLEY & TROWBRIDGE – They carry Mill Farm patterns, plus many other
lines, period correct linens and wools, shoes, books, needlework
tools, and much more. Order their paper catalog and swatch book – well
worth the cost. Their website is not fully functioning yet, but they
are working on it, and plan to have it ready for online orders by the
end of 2002. We've been promised web specials, so bookmark
this one! :-)
http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/
LA FLEUR DE LYSE – Patterns for habitants of Nouvelle France, homme
et femme, a must-read book, instructions for dressing the part, etc.
etc.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/gousse-matte/fdl/fleurdelyse.html
KANNICK'S KORNER – patterns for men, women and babies, and books
http://www.kannikskorner.com/
RECOLLECTIONS OF JP RYAN – patterns for ladies and gentlemen
http://www.jpryan.com/
THE SILLY SISTERS – Only source for pre-cut kid leather stay binding
that I know of. Numerous other interesting items:
http://www.sillysisters.com/
WOODED HAMLET – real silk ribbons, lacing, needlework tools, twill
tapes – again, get their paper catalog and swatch book, well worth the
cost.
http://www.woodedhamlet.com/
And, to find even more sutlers - RevList's merchants' page:
http://www.liming.org/revlist/merchant.html
RECOMMENDED READING - COSTUMING
These are our favorite costuming books, and ones that you will see
referenced over and over and over. A file folder of them exists on the
Bookmarks section of the list website. If you find a new book that’s
not on that list, please add to it. Also, please see this website for
a great bibliography of costuming research:
http://my.glasscity.net/~fkkannik/research.htm
Arnold, Janet - “Pattern of Fashion 1: Englishwoman's Dresses and
Their Construction: c.1660-1860.” Drama Publishers; ISBN: 089676026X;
Revised Edition Vol. 001; December 1977
Baumgarten, Linda - “Costume Close Up; Clothing Construction and
Pattern, 1750-1790.” Costume and Fashion Pr; ISBN: 0896762262; January 4,
2000
Bradfield, Nancy – “Costume in Detail : 1730-1930.” Quite Specific
Media Group Ltd; ISBN: 0896762173; First Costume Edition, November
1997.
Buck, Anne – “Dress In Eighteenth Century England.” Holmes & Meier
Publishers, Inc.; ISBN: 0841905177; January 1980.
Burnston, Sharon Ann – “Fitting & Proper.” Scurlock Pub Co; ISBN:
1880655101; March 2000.
Delpierre, Madeleine – “Dress in France in the Eighteenth Century.”
Yale Univ Pr; ISBN: 0300071280 ; English Edition, February 1998.
Gilgun, Beth – “Tidings from the 18th Century.” Scurlock Pub Co;
ISBN: 1880655047; May 1993.
Gousse , Suzanne and André – “Costume in New France from 1740 to
1760, a Visual Dictionary.” La Fleur de Lyse; ISBN: 2980459119; January
1999.
Kannick’s Korner – “The Lady’s Guide to Plain Sewing – Books 1 and
2.” (By a Lady) ISBN 0-9640161-0-9 (Book 1); N 0-9640161-2-5 (Book 2)
http://www.kannikskorner.com/booksew.htm
Montgomery, Florence – “Textiles in America 1650-1870.” W.W. Norton &
Company; ISBN: 0393017036; July 1984.
Queen, Sally – “Textiles for Colonial Clothing.” Q Graphics
Production Company; ISBN: 0965819744; May 2000.
Ribeiro, Aileen – “A Visual History of Costume The Eighteenth
Century.” Drama Publishers; ISBN: 0896762211; Revised Edition, September
1997.
Ribeiro, Aileen – “Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe.” Yale Univ Pr;
ISBN: 0300091516; 2nd Edition; May 2002.
Ribeiro, Aileen – “The Art of Dress : Fashion in England and France
1750 to 1820.” Yale Univ Pr; ISBN: 0300062877; September 1995.
Rothstein, Natalie – “A Lady of Fashion: Barbara Johnsons Album of
Styles and Fabrics.” W.W. Norton & Company; ISBN: 0500014191; September
1987.
Waugh, Norah – “The Cut of Women's Clothes, 1600-1930.” Theatre Arts
Books; ISBN: 0878300260 ; June 1994.
Waugh, Norah – “Corsets and Crinolines.” Theatre Arts Books; ISBN:
0878305262 ; December 1990
Okay, that's enough to start. :-)))) Welcome, post an introduction of
yourself, ask all the questions you like, and we'll try to come up
with the answers together! :-)))
Vos serviteurs humbles,
Barbara Smith, Moderator
Carolyn Smith-Kizer, Owner
FandIWomen-owner@yahoogroups.com
