| Item |
Most Accurate |
Good |
Minimum Acceptable |
Unacceptable |
Recommended Patterns |
| Apron |
100% linen, hemp or
wool; gathered to self fabric or to cotton or linen tape, with
tape ties
Blue aprons were common
|
Linen/cotton blend |
White cotton muslin
- Townsends apron
|
Unbleached cotton muslin
Pinner apron (probably worn by French only)
|
- Janice Ryans
Basic Six Piece Wardrobe Pattern |
| Arisaid |
4 yards long, 100% wool,
made up of 2 widths of 27" wool see criteria for mens
plaid
Can be plain wool instead of tartan
|
100% wool tartanone
piece, minimum 50" wide |
Good wool/poly blend
(not obvious synthetic) |
Cotton flannel; obviously
synthetic fabric |
No pattern necessary |
| Brooch |
Annular brooch, reproduction
of period brooch or close facsimile; steel, bone, or wood bodkin. |
Annular brooch, reproduction
of period brooch or close facsimile; steel, bone, or wood bodkin. |
Annular brooch from
Raymond's Quiet Press (R-23: 2-1/8"
Large Version)
Annular Brooches: a complete circle, not open
on one side.
Also avoid annular brooches that are obviously
early medieval. A more nondescript brooch will 'pass'
better for 18th c.
|
Penannular brooch: open
on one side -- these were not worn later than about the 10th or
11th century AD, so they're very out of date by the 18th century.
Victorian or modern 'Celtic' pins; obviously
medieval or Iron Age Celtic pins.
|
See Essay on Highland Brooches |
| Cap (Lowlanders or
wealthy Highlanders; may have been worn under Kertch) |
Mid-18th
c. lappet-eared pattern; linen, hand-sewn, silk ribbons |
|
White cotton muslin,
machine-sewn; head-cloth worn turban-style
Godwins plain cap might be ok havent seen
|
Circle "Mob Cap",
synthetic materials
Any of Townsends caps (dont look
right)
|
- Sykes Plain Ladies Cap (CAP1753L)
- Janice Ryans Cap Pattern
- Kanniks Korner Womens Lappet Cap (not the bonnet)
Online directions: BR Clothing & Accoutrements: How to Make a Cap |
| Kertch |
Linen, hand-hemmed;
30-45" square(?), pinned or tied under chin or at back of
neck
Some kind of cap or coif underneath see paintings |
|
Cotton or cotton-linen
blend, machine-sewn |
Cotton square too small,
with ragged edges |
|
| Pampooties |
Rawhide, cowhide shoes
from authentic pattern (see pattern recommendations at left)
Deerskin or brown cow hide shoes see patterns |
|
|
Chrome-dyed leather;
"Ren-Fest" cut-leather shoes with crepe soles |
- Lucas, Type 4
- Irish (Aran) Pampootie
- Lucas, Type 3 |
| Petticoat (i.e., skirt) |
100% wool, linen, or
linsey-woolsey, hand-sewn; stripes (if any) woven into material
Red wool petticoats (possibly with green or
other color wool tape band above hem as trim) were common
|
Linen, hemp, wool, linsey-woolsey,
machine-sewn except for visible stitching |
Cotton-linen blend;
Good wool-poly blend (not obviously synthetic), machine sewn |
Obvious synthetic fabrics;
stripes printed onto fabric |
Janice Ryans
Basic Six Piece Wardrobe Pattern |
| Pockets |
Linen or fustian; hand-sewn
and embroidered; tape or cording drawstring |
Cotton duck or cotton-linen
blend |
Mans sporran
not documentable, but possibly worn. See standards for mens
sporrans
Townsends pockets
|
Fur pouches; leather
over-the-shoulder purses |
- Janice Ryans
Basic Six Piece Wardrobe Pattern
- Kannik;s Korner Accessories Pattern |
| Shift (aka Sark) |
100% linen, hand-stitched,
period pattern
Commoners less likely to have ruffles on shift
sleeves and neckline
Lucet cording, or cotton, linen, or silk ribbon
drawstring
Thread buttons (if any) on sleeve cuffs
|
100% linen, machine-sewn |
White cotton muslin
or cotton-linen blend
Townsends Chemise w/out ruffle (probably
havent seen)
|
Unbleached muslin; polyester
or poly/cotton blend; 3"+ ruffle; polyester lace; Victorias
Secret nightgown; prints; drawstring- gathered "bag
sleeve"
18th c. shifts were worn with a very low neckline; wear it correctly,
then cover your cleaveage with a neckerchief.
|
- Janice Ryans
Basic Six Piece Wardrobe Pattern
- Kanniks Corner Womens Shift pattern
|
| Shoes (in town) |
Hand-made see
mens shoes criteria |
Machine-made, such as
Fugawees (see mens shoes criteria) |
Wooden-sole, leather-upper
clogs; leather mules |
Modern shoes; Mary
Janes |
Fugawees Ladies Shoes can be purchased from Godwin, Townsend, or Smoke n Fire |
| Gowns
Gowns are definitely under- represented in the
reenactment community at present. They were worn by women
from the top to the bottom of the social ladder -- in cheaper
fabrics, or bought used, toward the bottom.
|
Hand-made linen or wool
English-style gown (with stitched pleats in back), with mid-century
style robings, cuffs, and stomacher.
Avoid tapestry, lace, brocades, prints, and
fancy fabrics; unless your character is of the upper classes,
you couldn't have afforded these fabrics, so they aren't appropriate
for the average Highland woman.
|
Machine-sewn ditto |
Cotton-linen blends,
wool-poly blends |
late 18th century (Rev.
War) period gowns; brocades, tapestry, most prints, fancy fabrics;
I have yet to see a good period reproduction fabric from the
middle of the 18th century, though there are a few for the
very late 1800s. It's much safer to use plain fabric. |
Mill Farms gown pattern -- currently
out of print; or, one draped from Patterns of Fashion by
Janet Arnold and/or Norah Waugh's Cut of Women's Clothes
Not a beginning seamstress's project!
|
| Shortgown/ Jacket
There's some debate as to whether shortgowns
were worn in Europe; Jackets are better, but I think shortgowns
are acceptable.
|
100% wool, linen, or
linsey-woolsey, hand-sewn; stripes (if any) woven into material;
period-documentable prints (see below on prints) |
Linen, hemp, wool, linsey-woolsey,
machine-sewn except for visible stitching; prints in keeping with
period patterns |
Cotton-linen blend;
Good wool-poly blend (not obviously synthetic), machine sewn
Townsends Shortgown or Bed Jacket
|
Obvious synthetic fabrics;
stripes printed onto fabric; non-period prints |
- Janice Ryans
Basic Six Piece Wardrobe or Manteau de Lit Pattern
Kanniks Korner Manteau de Lit Pattern
|
| Stays |
Linen with metal, cane
or broom boning; lucet cord or tape lacing; leather or tape binding;
hand-sewn. May be wool-covered. |
Linen, cotton drill,
or fustian with German whalebone boning; machine-sewn. |
Jumps
lightly boned stays usually worn for undress only,
i.e., if you were nursing or ill, or in your bedroom. |
Ren-Fest
bodices (tapestry or brocade fabrics; metal grommets; cut under
the breast); synthetic ribbons; synthetic fabrics
"English Bodice"
"French Bodice"
|
- Janice Ryans
Stays Pattern
- Web Instructions: How to make 18th c. Stays
|
| Stockings |
100% wool, hand-knit
to period pattern, or cut hose |
|
Wool-poly blend or cotton,
over-the-knee
Can be purchased from Godwin, Townsend, other sites
|
Modern socks (below
the knee) |
- Kannik;s Korner Accessories Pattern |
Paris Street
Cries by Bouchardon; 1737-1742 (Figs 178-221).
Broken Eggs by Jean Baptiste Greuze (1756)-- look at the kertch-like
item worn by the old woman; interesting parallel to the Scottish
kertch.
Le Geste
Napolitain by Jean Baptiste Greuze (1757)
Greuze: The Spoiled
Child (1765)
Chardin: Grace
before the meal (1761)
Chardin:
Girl Peeling Vegetables
Chardin:
The Attentive Nurse (1738)
Chardin:
The Laundress (1730s)
Chardin:
The Return from Market (1739)
Greuze: The
Laundress
Fragonard:
The Stolen Kiss
Liotard:
The Chocolate-Girl (1743-1745) -- Swiss